The first post about our house was literally about building with dirt. Here, I wanted to write about the home's energy efficiency systems. Although there are a few
things that we would do differently if building all over again, which I'll mention below, the house in general performs very well---cool in the summer, warm in the winter. Our
total energy bill was under $20 per month for the first few years we
lived there. Adding a chest freezer and supplemental heat in the
greenroom---plus a rise in energy prices---brought the bill to about $28/month, where it
remains today.
Kitty contemplates the woodburning stove. Photo by Aaron. |
Our house is heated with
passive and active solar, supplemented with a wood-burning stove. The
“passive solar” is simply the orientation of the home: we have
large south-facing windows (despite the fact that our best views are
to the east) with the right length eave (about 2 ft) to provide shade
in the summer and sunlight in the winter, when the sun’s lower in
the sky.
Although this is just the downstairs, the upstairs is passive solar too. These windows face south. |
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Sun through the south windows in February. |
(Side note: when I was a precalculus teacher, I had the students do a trigonometry assignment where they calculated the length of eave necessary for good passive solar design.)
Trigonometry assignment on designing a passive solar house. |
The “active solar” is 3 solar hot water panels, 4 x 10 ft, which provide plenty of hot water for our domestic needs 99.5% of the time.
Solar hot water panels on the roof. |
Aaron laying Wirsbo for the in-floor solar hydronic heat. |
Solar panels on a sunny winter's day. |
The solar-heated hot water
tank has an electric backup, in case it’s cloudy for a while.
Because we get so much sun all year round here in New Mexico, we
almost never need it. In fact, we keep the electric backup breaker
flipped off at all times, and have only had to flip it on a handful
of times when it was cloudy for too long or the solar system needed
repairs.
The only
downside to the solar hot water/hydronic heat system: it has needed far too many repairs since it
was installed in 2008. The pump broke, a panel sprung a leak, and the
contractor has been unable to solve a “knocking” problem (boiling
inside the pipes – it literally sounds like someone knocking on the
roof in the hottest hours of the afternoon; it’s also bad for the
pump). We love having
a solar hot water system and would recommend the overall setup to
anyone, but get references before
you choose a contractor.
Sometimes it is cloudy in New Mexico! But not often. Go solar. |
Insulation
The 14-inch thick
compressed earth block walls do a great job of providing thermal mass
and moderating temperature swings. The summers are cool and crisp
inside our walls (no AC needed). We have foam insulation on all sides
but the south side of the house, and blown-in cellulose in the
stick-frame upstairs and in the roof.
Yellow spray foam insulation.
We hired a contractor for the blown- in cellulose in the upstairs walls. |
However, it is easy to rent a blower and do it yourself. We did the cellulose in the ceiling/roof spaces ourselves. |
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To raise the heat to a more comfortable high 60s/low 70s temperature (Aaron and I disagree on “comfortable”),
we supplement the passive and active solar with our Vermont Castings
Encore wood stove. We also enjoy cooking on the wood stove.
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Woodburning stove pipe running through the bedroom. The built-in fan in the wall to the right of the pipe draws hot air from above the stove downstairs into the bedroom. |
The greenroom
was a later addition, although it would have been really,
really smart to design it into the house in the first place. It supplements the heat in the house by pumping hot air into the living room. (For
example: the greenroom encloses two large non-operable
south-facing windows. It would have been really smart to have those
windows operable, for easy air transport between the house and
greenroom.) It’s my new favorite room in the house---when I get
home on a cold winter day, and the house temperature is in the 60s,
it’s great to go lounge in the greenroom in the 80s until the
woodburning stove kicks in.
We collect water from all
of the roof area on our property, including two small sheds. We have
four rainwater cisterns:
2500 gallons
1600
gallons300 gallons
300 gallons
For a total of 4700
gallons of water storage. Every year, we’ve tried to water a
fairly large vegetable garden using only
rainwater. Every year, we’ve failed to succeed completely, but at
least two years were very, very close and would have worked if there
hadn’t been unfortunate cistern-draining accidents. The other years
have been stymied by exceptional drought (three years in a row).
The setup is simple and gravity-fed, although we’ve become too greedy with plantings in our upper garden and now we think a pump will be necessary to supply water to the upper garden from the 2500 gallon cistern behind the house. The 1600 gallon cistern has plenty of elevation drop above the lower garden.
We’ve had to learn a bit of plumbing to handle our rainwater systems, and we do have problems with freezing and bursting in the winter if we’re not careful about preventative measures.
The drip irrigation is hooked directly to the tank with the auto-watering controllers shown here. When we first went to Home Depot and Lowe’s, we were told that auto-watering systems rely on high water pressure to open the valve and that they wouldn’t work on gravity fed, low-pressure systems. Indeed, we tried a few controllers just to make sure and <link>this is the only brand we found<link> that works on a gravity-fed system. The upper garden is divided into three drip zones to minimize the pressure required to water it all. The lower garden is on two zones. We use the 300 gallon tanks on the chicken coop and on the back shed to water various fruit trees.
The roots of the trees are
tapped in to the gray and black water coming from the infiltrators;
we provide supplemental water when it’s hot, but much of the time
the trees get enough from the “liquid gold” coming from our
toilets and sinks. We do nothing to stop shrubby weeds from growing
under the trees and above the infiltrators, as their roots will also
help with aerobic decomposition in the soil; shallow leachfield
systems like this need to have relatively oxic conditions to
effectively deal with breaking down waste.
Happy fruit trees.
Conventional wisdom is that you don’t want to grow any ground crops on black water (er, that’s poopy water, in case you were wondering) because of risk of disease transmission, but fruit trees are allegedly very effective at filtering out the nasty stuff. I say “allegedly” because concrete, peer-reviewed evidence in the literature is hard to find. I’ve heard this given as the reason it’s usually safe to eat tree fruit when travelling in the third world, but not uncooked vegetables, like lettuce. At any rate, we grow our fruit trees right on top of our leachfield infiltrators without worrying about root damage. The system is performing perfectly in terms of smell, and we do occasionally peek into the infiltrators through the observations ports (ew) and everything looks fine, as far as we can tell.
The basic idea is that the cisterns are full of snowmelt at the end of the winter and just need to last through the planting season (May) and the dry month of June before the monsoon rains refill the tanks in early July.
300 gallon cistern by the shed/chicken coop. |
The drip irrigation is hooked directly to the tank with the auto-watering controllers shown here. When we first went to Home Depot and Lowe’s, we were told that auto-watering systems rely on high water pressure to open the valve and that they wouldn’t work on gravity fed, low-pressure systems. Indeed, we tried a few controllers just to make sure and <link>this is the only brand we found<link> that works on a gravity-fed system. The upper garden is divided into three drip zones to minimize the pressure required to water it all. The lower garden is on two zones. We use the 300 gallon tanks on the chicken coop and on the back shed to water various fruit trees.
The drip irrigation controller in a patch of mint. This is the only brand of drip controller that we've found will work with low-pressure, gravity-fed systems. This is an old picture; we now have multiple zones and a single controller that alternates watering between the zones. |
Gray/Black Water
All of our household’s
water goes to a septic tank first and long rows of shallow plastic
infiltrators for the leachfield second. The system is designed to
shunt water effectively to a small orchard of 11 fruit trees which
are planted on the leachfield.
Septic leachfield infiltrators. |
Conventional wisdom is that you don’t want to grow any ground crops on black water (er, that’s poopy water, in case you were wondering) because of risk of disease transmission, but fruit trees are allegedly very effective at filtering out the nasty stuff. I say “allegedly” because concrete, peer-reviewed evidence in the literature is hard to find. I’ve heard this given as the reason it’s usually safe to eat tree fruit when travelling in the third world, but not uncooked vegetables, like lettuce. At any rate, we grow our fruit trees right on top of our leachfield infiltrators without worrying about root damage. The system is performing perfectly in terms of smell, and we do occasionally peek into the infiltrators through the observations ports (ew) and everything looks fine, as far as we can tell.
We make sure to use
household products (dish soap, laundry detergent, shampoo, etc) that
seem the most biodegradable and benign (although this is somewhat of
a guessing game). We never let paints or solvents or other harsh
chemicals go down the drain (although this should be true for anyone
with a septic tank; it’s bad for the microbial flora that help make
any septic system work).